I’ve often had more thoughts about a project than I could fit into an Instagram caption, so I jumped at the chance to be a blogger for Jenny Stitches and am grateful for the opportunity. I first discovered Jenny’s shop when I started sewing just over two years ago now and have been a returning customer ever since!
I tend to enjoy sewing projects that I know I can get a lot of everyday use out of (although special occasion outfits are a fun project too) but recently I’ve found myself wearing the same pair of jeans over and over so I think a new pair of trousers was just the ticket.
For my first project, I chose to make a pair of Pietra Pants from Closet Core Patterns in stone washed 100% linen in khaki.
The Pietra Pants and Shorts pattern is part of Closet Core Patterns’ Rome Collection and features a high-waisted rise with a flat front and elasticated back waistband. They have angled hip pockets and come in different length and silhouette options: wide leg full length or cropped, a slim tapered leg, and shorts. I chose to make the tapered leg option and cropped the length to sit just above my ankle. The linen is between khaki and olive in colour and has the most gorgeous texture. It’s quite heavy in weight and has some give, but it presses well and is easy to handle.
Since I had the paper pattern, I first traced all the necessary pattern pieces in my size. I measured at a size 10 for the waist and a size 12 for the hips so I graded between the two, using the helpful grading guide included in the instruction booklet. Because the waist would be a size smaller than the hips, I was worried that they might be difficult to put on so to avoid the awkward pants dance, I followed the Closet Core blog post to insert an invisible zipper to the right hand side seam. The other thing I noticed after checking out the hashtag on Instagram (#ClosetCorePietra) was that the back rise looked a bit too short on some people. I know that I have a high waist and often need to increase the rise in trouser patterns, so after measuring the crotch curve, I decided to add 3 cm to both the front and back rise. This turned out to be perfect for the back but too much for the front so something to tweak in my next pair.
The other size adjustment I found I needed to make was to shorten the back waistband elastic by about 5cm, which means that the side seams pull towards the back as a result. I don’t think this is a problem necessarily and it may actually be part of the pattern design but I’m not entirely sure. However, even after this adjustment, the trousers still felt like they would fall down so I hand stitched a softer piece of elastic to the front seam allowance along the waist between the front and the front facing. This means that the front gathers a little when not worn but I don’t think you can tell that there is elastic inside when I’m wearing them and they feel much more secure. This waist fitting is another aspect that I will probably try to improve in my next pair.
Overall I found the instructions to be very clear and comprehensive, and I thought the pocket construction was particularly interesting. The one place I did stray from the directions however was applying the fusible interfacing to the front facing. I followed a method I had seen on Instagram where you first sew the fusible interfacing and facing right sides together (right side of the facing to the non-fusible side of the interfacing) and then flip them so the wrong side of the facing is together with fusible side of the interfacing, and then press so that the interfacing sticks. What you end up with is a super clean finished edge on the facing pieces, which could be a great option if you don’t have an overlocker.
I do have an overlocker (relatively recent present to myself) so I used it to finish all the other raw edges with my rainbow thread since it won’t be seen from the outside and it feels like a little surprise just for me. I sewed the regular seams on my normal sewing machine with matching Gutermann thread and a universal needle. I chose to hand sew the hems for an invisible finish and I also hand sewed the stitch-in-the-ditch to secure the front facing down the centre side seams, as well as where the facing meets the zipper tape. The finishing touch was adding my own label, as well as another cute label with a positive affirmation for myself when I wear them.
Despite the minor fit issues, this was a very enjoyable sew as a result of the high quality linen and comprehensive instructions. I haven’t sewn with 100% linen much before but I will be adding it to my list of favourite fabrics going forward! And I can definitely recommend the Pietra Pants if you are looking for a smart but comfy pair of trousers with some unique details.
Jenny Says:
"I loved reading Chloe's blog, what a great insight into her construction process. I think we'll all be looking for an excuse for rainbow hems now! Her Pietra pants are really stylish and the fit is excellent."
Inspired to make your own version? Here's what you'll need:
 |
 |
 |
| Pattern : Closet Core Pietra Pants & Shorts | Fabric : Stonewashed 100% Linen in Khaki | Rainbow Overlocker Cones |