I made the latest pattern from hit designer Tilly and the Buttons - here's why I think she's a wardrobe winner.
About the Pattern
Luella is a trendy tiered skirt, with a two tiered midi and three tiered maxi options. With optional pockets (who doesn’t love a pocket) Tilly describes Luella as “made for twirling”.
The pattern is aimed at confident beginners, as it doesn’t contain any fastenings. The trickiest technique involved is gathering, so it’s a great project for novice dressmakers, or more seasoned sewists looking for a quick win.
I wanted to make a Luella after seeing dozens of similar styles in the shops this summer. Tiered maxi skirts are nothing new, and I can certainly recall them being in fashion more than once in the past so it’s fair to say that Luella has the potential to be a pretty and comfortable addition to my wardrobe, but what was it like to sew?
Fabric & Notions
The Luella pattern asks for light to medium weight woven fabrics that gather easily. Easy gathering is the key here, and generally speaking the thicker the fabric you choose, the harder it’s going to be to achieve soft and even gathers. In my opinion, it’s best to stick to lighter, more drapey fabrics, so you don’t add lots of bulk and the skirt will hang better.
I used one of our Purple Package kits to create my Luella, as it had everything I needed inside to make my skirt, which was so handy!
The fabric is a viscose twill by Fabric Godmother called Paige, which features a super vibrant floral design on a green base. I love the colours in the print and the fabric has excellent drape, making it ideal for those swishy tiers. As I was making the 3 tier version, I used 3 metres of fabric.
My kit also contained 38mm elastic for my waistband, a matching thread and a little interfacing for the pocket openings.
Size, Adjustments & Fit
After checking my measurements against the size chart (essential!) I made the size 5, which equates to a UK 14. I didn’t need to adjust the pattern pieces in any way, as the skirt flares away from the body at the waist. The waist is adjusted to fit using elastic, so it was a simple case of cut and get going!
I checked the length after adding the final tier and was happy that when hemmed it would be the perfect length. I am 5ft 5, so the standard height seems to work well for me. If you have to add or deduct significant amounts from your length, it’s important to remember to distribute your adjustment across all tiers, to make sure the skirt retains even proportions.
The finished skirt feels very light and feminine, the fabric provides beautiful movement and the tiers feel evenly spaced. By using an elastic waistband the fit is perfect, with a little flexibility for a large lunch!
Construction Process
Whilst the pattern is definitely beginner friendly, there’s no denying that there is a LOT of gathering. It’s worth taking your time to carefully and clearly divide your tiers into even quarters to keep everything evenly distributed.
In particular, attaching the third tier is a little tricky due to it’s sheer size when flat. It’s best to spread it out on the floor or a table to you can help manage the swathes!
Speaking of the third tier, one aspect that threw me was the use of three panels to create the full width of the bottom tier. I will admit, this befuddled my brain slightly as usually, I’d be able to align the quarters of a tier with the side seams but in this instance it wouldn’t work.
This uneven number of panels does mean that there’s a rather visible seam on one of the panels which I wish I’d considered better in its placement, however without pattern matching the panels (which wouldn’t’ have been a considerable waste of fabric) it couldn’t ‘t really be avoided.
Otherwise, construction was really straight forward and I particularly like the effect of the top stitched seams, helping the seam allowances sit nice and flat. The additional rows of topstitching on the waistband also help it to lie flat and not roll within the casing. A future upgrade could be to sew some button holes and create a draw string channel, which would both look nice and help identify front from back.
Styling Ideas
My Luella could be easily switched up for day or night time, home or holiday use, I think it’s a really versatile piece.
I plan on styling with either flat sandals for work and holiday, or adding glam heels for a night out, the length allows for both.
In terms of tops, I’ve paired with a tank top – the Pattern Emporium Time Out tank in a coordinating orange cotton jersey. I would also wear the skirt with a longer sleeve and tights/boots in autumn or with swimwear and a soft overshirt on holiday.
Would I Make It Again?
Yes! I’m already planning a plain version, maybe using a 4.5oz denim for crossover into the autumn, or possible a babycord for the cooler months.
Tips & Reflections
· Consider pattern placement of panels on bottom tier, before cutting out
· Mark your tier quarters clearly on both the panels and the skirt pieces, don’t be afraid to add even more markers such as eighths to keep the distribution even.
· Spread your work out on the floor to see what you are doing!
· Use a contrast thread to sew the gather stitches to save on your coordinating colour, it’s a thread hungry process!
Have you made the Luella skirt? Share your thoughts in the comments below.